Gabrielle Chanel and the rebirth of diamonds in 1932

Restoring the brilliance of diamonds after the 1929 crisis

Since the 1929 stock market crash , the diamond industry has struggled to recover . London's Diamond Corporation Limited , formerly a subsidiary of De Beers , enlistedGabrielle Chanel , the renowned French fashion designer, to revitalize the market . Her mission was to make diamonds desirable once again .

The creation of the “Diamond Jewelry” collection

In 1932 , Gabrielle Chanel launched her first and only High Jewelry collection, which she named “ Bijoux de Diamants ” (Diamond Jewelry). The collection comprised 49 pieces designed by the Parisian ateliers Lemoine and Rudhart , crafted from white and yellow diamonds set in platinum and yellow gold. The jewelry, inspired by stars and freedom , was intended for everyday wear. This idea stemmed from her childhood and the years she spent at the Aubazine Abbey in Corrèze, where she recalled playing hopscotch in the courtyard, incorporating symbols such as the sun , the moon , comets , and stars .

An artistic collaboration and an innovative exhibition

For this collection, Gabrielle Chanel collaborated with Paul Iribe to create the designs, which were displayed in her private mansion at 29 rue du Faubourg Saint-Honoré in Paris . She introduced fashion rules and a common theme, and decided to present the jewelry on wax mannequins , which was indeed an innovation in the field of jewelry.

The exhibition, which charged an entrance fee of 20 francs , donated its proceeds to two charities . It attracted immense interest, notably from high-society figures such as Pablo Picasso and Jean Cocteau . Thanks to Gabrielle Chanel 's efforts, the value of diamonds skyrocketed , and their popularity rebounded on the market.

Tensions in the industry and the legacy of the collection

However, the announcement by Diamond Corporation Limited caused tensions in the jewelry industry . Established houses on Place Vendôme , such as Cartier and Chaumet , partly opposed this initiative, particularly the fact that a fashion house was interfering in the very closed sector of high jewelry , and insisted that the jewels not be sold but dismantled and returned to Diamond Corporation after the exhibition.

Years later, in 1998 , when it was thought that all the jewelry in this collection had disappeared or been dismantled, an iconic comet brooch , adorned with 28 old-cut diamonds , made a remarkable reappearance at auction. Chanel purchased this brooch, which is now preserved as a heritage treasure of the House of Chanel .