René Boivin: Audacity and timeless elegance in jewelry
Jules René Boivin was born in Paris in 1864. Born into a family of drapers, he began his apprenticeship with one of his brothers, who had become a goldsmith. In 1890, he founded his own eponymous house and, by the early decades of the 20th century, he had already made a name for himself in the field of French fine jewelry.
In 1893, Boivin decided to settle at 38 rue de Turbigo, after having acquired several workshops and assembled a team of artisans. That same year, he married Jeanne Poiret , sister of the couturier Paul Poiret. Until the death of René Boivin in 1917, they worked hand in hand to ensure the success of the House.
René Boivin's bold designs stand out from the typical Art Nouveau proportions of the time. He draws inspiration from the Middle East and Asia and focuses on unique commissions, not hesitating to transform his clients' old jewelry into new, original pieces.
The combinations of elements and colours used by René Boivin are, for his time, very original. He explores innovative materials such as wood, rock crystal and agate, which he combines with semi-precious stones such as citrine, aquamarine, topaz, amethyst and lapis lazuli.
After René Boivin's death in 1917, his wife moved the house to the Avenue de l'Opéra and hired André Groult, her brother-in-law, to decorate it. The Salon Boivin, adjacent to the studio, became a popular meeting place, frequented by celebrities such as Hélène Rochas and Lady Diana Cooper .
Jeanne Boivin will encourage the work of female jewelry designers, at a time when the industry was mainly dominated by men. The sources of inspiration will be varied, ranging from marine motifs for Jeanne Boivin , to animal and floral representations for Juliette Moutard .
Suzanne Belperron's creations also had a major influence on the history of the House and of jewelry in the 20th century. Artistic director since 1924, her jewelry is sensual and voluminous, in perfect harmony with the modern woman. As unique as they are refined, they have sublimated the Duchess of Windsor and Elsa Schiaparelli .
In 1991, René Boivin was acquired by the London-based Asprey house, which eventually closed its doors. Today, her unsigned creations are highly sought after by collectors. Jeanne Boivin's decision not to affix her signature, considering it a vulgar pretension, has made her creations even more desirable on the market.
