Renée Puissant: The Creative Legacy of Van Cleef & Arpels

The origins of Renée Puissant are rooted in the love story between Alfred Van Cleef , the son of a lapidary and diamond broker, and Estelle Arpels, the daughter of a gemstone merchant. Their union gave birth to the founding of the Van Cleef & Arpels brand, located at 22 Place Vendôme since June 1906.

Beginning in 1926, Renée Puissant forged a bold and creative style , leaving a lasting mark for about two decades. Her innovative spirit is reflected in her legendary creations, such as the Minaudières, the transformable Zip necklace, Passe-Partout jewelry and Serti Mystérieux jewelry.

Among these exceptional works, the Zip necklace, with its avant-garde design and innovative technique, perfectly embodies Renée Puissant's style. The idea for this jewel inspired by the zipper, little used at the time, was suggested by Wallis Simpson, the Duchess of Windsor , in the late 1930s.

Patented in 1938 as the "ornamental zipper", the first Zip necklace would not see the light of day until 1950, due to the interruptions caused by the war. This piece in gold or platinum, adorned with precious stones, could be opened (to be worn as a necklace) or closed (for a bracelet version) with the same flexibility as a zipper.

The Passe-Partout , patented in 1938, is much more than a conventional piece of jewelry. The iconic version presented at the New York International Exhibition in 1939 features Ceylon sapphire flowers, offering exceptional versatility: it can be transformed into a bracelet, necklace, choker, sautoir, clip or belt.

Renée Puissant's contribution to the world of jewelry includes the invention of the Mystery Setting technique . In 1933, she patented a device for mounting gemstones that allowed them to be set without using visible prongs or settings, making the setting completely invisible. The stones are inserted into rails, concealing all traces of metal.