A platform for buying and selling second-hand jewelry, Castafiore was founded by Charlotte Rey and Anne Borde. These two jewelry insiders form a perfect duo because they complement each other: Anne worked for 30 years in the world of auctions, so she has a keen eye for recognizing the most beautiful signature jewelry; Charlotte, for her part, worked at Cartier for 20 years, so she knows perfectly the demands of customers as well as the secrets of this house founded in the 19th century.
When working in the world of antique and vintage jewelry, it is essential to know how to separate the fake from the real. The great jewelry houses - like Cartier - have aroused so much admiration that they have also been widely copied. Castafiore's expert work therefore consists not only in determining the nature of the materials, the weight of the gold and the carat of the stones, but also the true sign that it is indeed a designer jewel.
An iconic house on Place Vendôme, Cartier has been widely copied over the centuries. The famous Tank watches in particular have been the subject of numerous counterfeits that have disappointed customers who were convinced they owned an authentic Cartier watch. While Rolex and Cartier watches are the most counterfeited objects in the world, jewelry such as rings and bracelets are no exception.
However, how do you distinguish a genuine Cartier jewel from a fake? How do you know if your ring is fake or genuine? Castafiore explains how to separate the fake from the real and how to be sure you own an authentic Cartier jewel.
Cartier and counterfeiting
As we have mentioned, brands such as Cartier and Rolex are the subject of numerous counterfeits. Let us recall that counterfeiting is the act of fraudulently imitating or reproducing the work of others. When we observe a counterfeit jewel, at first glance, we do not necessarily distinguish the differences between the original and the fake. Some details are not deceptive, but these are sometimes difficult to detect: in this, it is essential to call on experts who are used to handling Cartier jewels.
Counterfeiting is, however, a much more complex subject than one might imagine. The Cartier Panther case in particular sparked debate. The Maison de la Place Vendôme accused a company of copying the style of Cartier's iconic Panther jewelry. However, the courts did not all agree to recognize the counterfeiting: the Court of Appeal argued that Cartier could not appropriate the genre of the panther. Counterfeiting was therefore only partially recognized in the case of the Cartier Panther!
Details to look for to recognize a real Cartier jewel
Of course, there are essential criteria to know if you have in your hands a real or fake Cartier jewel.
Wear and traces of oxidation
Cartier jewelry is a piece of high jewelry renowned for its finish and quality. The details are extremely neat and this of course extends to the choice of materials.
Also, a fake Cartier jewel is not made with the same gold : over time, the imitation of a Love ring in yellow gold for example may show traces of oxidation and wear. A real Love ring will not show the same defects because it is a jewel in 750/1000th yellow gold, or 18 carat gold. The alloy is therefore rarely similar: if the copy is a 375/1000th alloy it will be a jewel containing more copper and therefore more fragile when faced with the phenomenon of oxidation. Counterfeiters can even use materials that simply imitate gold and which in a few months will lose all their shine on contact with the skin.
The different inscriptions on Cartier jewelry
Let's take the case of a Cartier Love ring: an authentic Cartier jewel does not have any “Love” inscription , only the name of the House appears on the inside of the ring. However, it is common for counterfeits to add the inscription “Love”: this is an essential sign to recognize a fake!
The Cartier signature is also an essential element to detect a fake. The signature must be perfectly executed, without any blurring or hesitation. Likewise, you must be able to recognize the master's mark: it is a diamond in which you can distinguish the jeweler's initials as well as various symbols characterizing him.
The solidity of the jewel
In the case of a bracelet, for example, the fastening system can be revealing. The Clou Cartier bracelet in particular must be easy to fasten; you must feel the solidity and resistance of the jewel when you put it on your wrist. Counterfeiters use lower quality fasteners that are not perfectly aligned. For example, the screws of a Love bracelet must be perfectly aligned: if this is not the case, there is a good chance that it is a fake.
The serial number of a real Cartier jewel
The serial number is one of the engravings that you should see on a Cartier jewel. It is a unique number that can be observed, for example, on the attachment or clasp of a bracelet. It is essential to check that it is indeed a serial number used by Cartier and that the engraving is not thick or blurred.
Note that older models do not have a serial number.
The patterns of a genuine Cartier jewel
Let's take the example of a Love ring again: the rounded patterns are a key feature of this model. However, the circles of a counterfeit ring are not as coherent and symmetrical, the lines are too deep and too thick.
The case of a Cartier jewel
If the jewelry comes with its box, this alone can alert you to the authenticity of your ring or bracelet.
A Cartier box is designed with the same attention to detail as a piece of jewelry : it is made of crocodile-style grained leather with a velvet interior featuring a very fine and detailed printed logo. If you do not observe these details and instead detect, for example, traces of glue or a sign of detachment, be careful, the piece of jewelry inside the box may not be a Cartier!
